12/2/10 The Patience of Griselda   Leave a comment

 So, the camicia will not be ready for Magna Faire.  I have come to terms with this. I am close to finishing the research and pattern trials and I am happy to say that I think I have a solid arguement for the pattern I have settled on (there being no extant 15th C camicias or patterns, it’s all conjecture). After being sick for almost a week I realized about 1am Tuesday morning that I did not have enough time to do this the way I wanted it to be done. It will be ready for Mid-Winter.

My research style tends to be 1) scan as much as I can find, read, absord and save; 2) muse, draw, develop theories and understandings, and scan for more specific info as questions arise; 3) once optimal mass is reached (I feel comfortable that I have found enough sources, found answers for my questions and synthesized/internalized the data ) I enter a head long,  downhill, relatively focused time of compiling what I’ve found, checking that I’ve pulled everything I need from the resources available, and pushing toward the final product. In this case it’s a pattern and then the garmet. Once I get to the step of cutting out the garmet and sewing it, I consider myself in the home stretch. The sewing is the easy, brainless part.

In revisiting Birbari last weekend I found a picture I had intended to followup on, but forgot about. The story of Patient Griselda. In panel II we see her in 3 states of dress (full, partal, and just the camicia). This is a wonderful find (and I am very grateful to the National Gallery of London for making this painting available online!).  I don’t know of another example where we get to see how the camicia looks both under the dress (at sleeves and neck) and also by itself, all in the same painting.

The trick now is to not loose momentum (there are so many attractive distractions!). I am ready for a full size mockup to figure out the size of the gores and gusset.

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Posted September 1, 2011 by studioloperyn in 15th c italian clothing

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