Archive for the ‘documentation’ Category

3/21/2012 – Gulf Wars   3 comments

Gulf Wars 21 is done. We had a great time and I’m very proud of both horses for handling the war so well. I only rode Nico. Picaro wasn’t quite ready to stay settled with all the new scary stuff so I walked him in hand alot and introduced him to everything. Although he was frequently wide-eyed, he handled almost everything except Raven, the big black mare, when she charged down the tilt lane across from him. She’s pretty intimidating so I understand. The years of operant conditioning paid off. As soon as he stopped running he looked around for me, I held out my hand, said “target” and he came right to me. I have a personal theory that mares may be better for jousting because they are more bad-ass. Nico lays back her ears and makes nasty faces when we tilt.

Nico gets very excited at the games and I am challenged to keep her smooth and quiet while riding (while standing she falls asleep). I got lots of compliments on my riding and was asked if I am a professional rider :) One of my first period riding class students from the last couple years told me this year he’s taking riding lessons at home and is amazed at how effective leg yeilds are in controlling his mount during mounted combat, something I emphasize in my classes :)

The dogs ran in the Royal coursing on Thursday and did pretty well handling the crowds. Everyone wants to get a puppy fix, but they get overwhelmed easily so we try to give them long breaks. Very cute to see queens of the Knowne World sitting on the ground and cajoling a 15 lb IG to come say hi.

I entered my camicia in the GW Arts & Sciences open on Friday. Although I didn’t win populace choice I got a huge surprise: wonderful praise from Kass McGann of Reconstructing History, a professional who has done much more hands on research of the actual garments than I will ever be able to do!


12/28/11 The camicia is done, long live the camicia   Leave a comment

photo credit - Martin WhitenOver a year of research, patterning and handsewing has come to an end. The 15th C Italian camicia is done and made its debut at Magna Faire Dec 3rd with an 18/20 score (KA&S rules). One point off for documentation (needs some orgnizational tweaks and there was a comment on “excessive documentation”) and one for complexity.

I hope to address both of these by reworking the documentation (already in progress) and enter again at MidWinter. The documentation was a little rough for Magna Faire so I didn’t get a chance to explain the extent of the research and pattern testing I did on this project, which I feel increases it’s complexity (along with the super tiny seams!).photo credit - Martin Whiten

The extraneous documentation was background on who would have made the camicias in period (Frick goes into detail on the seamstresses who specialized in personal linens) and how many a person would own. I will move these to an appendix to avoid overwhelming the casual reader, but I think those interested in the subject matter will find this information interesting.

The display got alot of compliments, but I think for the Gulf Wars open I’ll need a break down holder for the camicia instead of bringing Beth (my dressmaker dummy), she takes up a whole car seat.

photo credit - Susan Farmer

I also finished my 15th C Italian over dress and wore it at Magna Faire. It was mostly done for Red Tower, but needed a few more hooks in the front to get it to lay flat.

I tried sewing the box pleats closed for 2.5 inches, like the dresses in the Ferrara Triumph frescoes, but it completely changed the look at the waist, instead of being full just below the bodice, it was tight. It just didn’t look right (pictures to come later) so I ripped it all out and called it done.

I had a great time talking costuming with Domenica, judging a 15th C Italian gamurra and overdress by Jac, and having lunch with my apprentice sisters (who gleefully rummaged through my sewing box).

Next up is a rework to the new bodice pattern for the gamurra (I over did the front curve with awkward results) for a red/gold patterned dress and matching sleeves. I’m hoping to get it done for 12th Night or MidWinter and get this friggin’ pattern settled so I can crank out a couple more gamurras.

After that it’s all about getting stuff done for Gulf Wars. We’re bringing the horses and I need to make barding (yes, I have barding, but most of it is the horse equivalent of cotton t-tunics and needs to go away!). I’m also planning some men’s 15th C Italian outfits and have a long-sleeved skirted jacket in the works. Eventually I’d like a 16th C Ottoman riding outfit for mounted archery…….

Posted December 28, 2011 by studioloperyn in 15th c italian clothing, documentation, italy

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11/12/10 Magpies   Leave a comment

I was asked at the beginning of this year where I get inspiration for my projects. Inspiration routinely hunts me down and tackles me. Inspriation is not the problem. My problem is focusing on a singular topic to move forward with. Career, house, family and animals take a large portion of my time, so when I choose to focus on one research area or project, I must ignore the others. This is difficult for a magpie.

To illustrate my point, visit the visual thesaurus and type in a word. If you choose a good word, such as “dress”, you will see a myriad of linked words. The magpie happliy clicks each of those words and then the links those words produce. This is how I research for enjoyment, as well as when I’m researching a project. The problem is only following the relevent link and ignoring the rest. Try it, I dare you.

And so in my recent research I have have found information on soft farthingales, yardages for garments, and facinating contemporary female writers who describe in their letters silk fabrics, elaborate dresses, and gold worked embroidery. But I have set myself a deadline, so I make a note and move on. If I want to enter this piece in Magna Faire I need to finish my documentation and begin hand sewing. Soon.

Posted September 1, 2011 by studioloperyn in documentation, Magpies, Oooo! Shiney!