Archive for the ‘handsewing’ Tag

12/28/11 The camicia is done, long live the camicia   Leave a comment

photo credit - Martin WhitenOver a year of research, patterning and handsewing has come to an end. The 15th C Italian camicia is done and made its debut at Magna Faire Dec 3rd with an 18/20 score (KA&S rules). One point off for documentation (needs some orgnizational tweaks and there was a comment on “excessive documentation”) and one for complexity.

I hope to address both of these by reworking the documentation (already in progress) and enter again at MidWinter. The documentation was a little rough for Magna Faire so I didn’t get a chance to explain the extent of the research and pattern testing I did on this project, which I feel increases it’s complexity (along with the super tiny seams!).photo credit - Martin Whiten

The extraneous documentation was background on who would have made the camicias in period (Frick goes into detail on the seamstresses who specialized in personal linens) and how many a person would own. I will move these to an appendix to avoid overwhelming the casual reader, but I think those interested in the subject matter will find this information interesting.

The display got alot of compliments, but I think for the Gulf Wars open I’ll need a break down holder for the camicia instead of bringing Beth (my dressmaker dummy), she takes up a whole car seat.

photo credit - Susan Farmer

I also finished my 15th C Italian over dress and wore it at Magna Faire. It was mostly done for Red Tower, but needed a few more hooks in the front to get it to lay flat.

I tried sewing the box pleats closed for 2.5 inches, like the dresses in the Ferrara Triumph frescoes, but it completely changed the look at the waist, instead of being full just below the bodice, it was tight. It just didn’t look right (pictures to come later) so I ripped it all out and called it done.

I had a great time talking costuming with Domenica, judging a 15th C Italian gamurra and overdress by Jac, and having lunch with my apprentice sisters (who gleefully rummaged through my sewing box).

Next up is a rework to the new bodice pattern for the gamurra (I over did the front curve with awkward results) for a red/gold patterned dress and matching sleeves. I’m hoping to get it done for 12th Night or MidWinter and get this friggin’ pattern settled so I can crank out a couple more gamurras.

After that it’s all about getting stuff done for Gulf Wars. We’re bringing the horses and I need to make barding (yes, I have barding, but most of it is the horse equivalent of cotton t-tunics and needs to go away!). I’m also planning some men’s 15th C Italian outfits and have a long-sleeved skirted jacket in the works. Eventually I’d like a 16th C Ottoman riding outfit for mounted archery…….


Posted December 28, 2011 by studioloperyn in 15th c italian clothing, documentation, italy

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